Today I want to chat about a little project that solved a surprisingly annoying wardrobe problem. You know that classic librarian look with a collared shirt under a cozy sweater? I love it, but living in Texas means dealing with some unique layering challenges. Our “winter” lasts about three weeks, and even then, wearing multiple full layers can get pretty uncomfortable, especially indoors.
If you’re interested, I’ve also made a video about this entire project.
Plus, let’s be real – those bunched-up sleeves under sweaters drive me absolutely bonkers. Not to mention how button-down shirts never seem to lay quite right under other layers. But guess what? History came through with the perfect solution: the partlet!
If you’re not familiar with partlets, they’re these clever little garments that have been popping up throughout fashion history since the 15th century. Think of them as the original “fake collar” – they give you that layered look without all the bulk. They started in the Renaissance as neck and shoulder covers, evolved into the 18th-century fichu (basically a fancy kerchief), then became the Regency era’s chemisette, and even showed up as “dickeys” during WWII when fabric rationing forced people to get creative.
For my modern take on this historical solution, I used the free Wren Blouse pattern from Mood Fabrics (bless them for their inclusive size range!) and modified it to create three different partlets.
I made them in a dreamy purpley-grey (left over from a previous project – we love sustainable sewing), a delicate black lawn that’s practically gossamer (and probably wasn’t the best choice for this project tbh), and a surprisingly sturdy white lawn that’ll probably outlast me.
I started by using the free Wren Blouse pattern from Mood Fabrics. I modified the pattern by cutting it shorter, ending about an inch below the armscye and ignoring the bust dart.
I applied fusible interfacing to stiffen the collars and button bands. I started by sewing the collars first, then assembled the partlet bodies by joining the pieces at shoulders and side seams.
For the button bands, I added interfacing strips and created a clean finish at the top edge. Instead of using my serger for the short seams, I opted for flat-felled seams for durability.
I finished the armscyes with tiny rolled hems. After attaching the collars and giving them a good pressing, I hemmed the partlets with a simple double-folded hem.
Finally, I created buttonholes using my modern sewing machine and sewed on buttons using sturdy buttonhole thread to complete the garments.
The result? All the librarian chic with none of the bulk! These partlets give me exactly the look I want without making me feel like I’m being strangled by my own clothes. Plus, they’re perfect for our brief Texas winter – I can pop one on under a sweater and still be comfortable when the temperature inevitably swings back up to t-shirt weather by afternoon.
